Skincare Ingredients Explained: Niacinamide, Peptides, PDRN and Exosomes

Skincare ingredients explained in plain English

You do not need a chemistry degree to read a skincare label. You need four words translated: niacinamide, peptides, PDRN and exosomes.

At Knightsbridge Advanced Beauty, our clinic has been helping clients across Knightsbridge, Chelsea, Kensington and Belgravia since 1989. The question we hear most is not "what works?" It is "what does this actually mean?" So here is the short version, with one analogy per ingredient.

What is niacinamide, and what are peptides good for?

Niacinamide is the peacekeeper. It is vitamin B3, and it suits almost every skin type. It calms redness, helps regulate oil, softens the look of pores, fades uneven tone and strengthens the skin barrier, which is what keeps moisture in and irritants out. Most formulas sit between 2 and 10 per cent. Higher is not always better, and a sensitive skin often does best on the lower end. It is the ingredient we suggest first when a client has redness or congestion and does not know where to start.

Peptides are the text message. They are short chains of amino acids. Applied to the skin, they act as a signal telling cells to build more collagen and elastin. That is why they sit in anti-ageing serums aimed at fine lines and loss of firmness. They work slowly. Expect to use them consistently for 8 to 12 weeks before judging the result.

The two work well together, and that is why you will often see them in one serum. Niacinamide keeps the skin calm and the barrier strong. Peptides do the longer, quieter job of rebuilding firmness. Both are gentle enough for daily use under SPF, and both are a sensible starting point before anything stronger.

What are PDRN and exosomes, and do they work?

PDRN is the construction crew. PDRN stands for polydeoxyribonucleotide. It is a purified DNA fragment, usually taken from salmon, used to support repair and healing in the skin. In a clinic, the injectable form (polynucleotides) is placed in the dermis, where the skin does its rebuilding. That is the version behind the "glass skin" glow you see online, and it is the one with the most interest from clinicians.

The serum version is a different story. There is no robust clinical data yet for topical PDRN, and a serum sitting on the surface should not be expected to match an injectable. Our view: PDRN serums can be a pleasant, hydrating step. Treat them as support, not as a substitute for a clinic treatment such as our skin boosters.

Exosomes are the delivery truck. They are tiny packages that cells use to pass messages to each other, and they are one of the most talked-about ideas in skin renewal. They are also where you need to be careful. According to Save Face, the UK accredited register for aesthetic practitioners, human-derived exosomes are not approved for cosmetic use in the UK or EU, and injected exosomes have no UK marketing authorisation. Topical products using plant or animal-derived exosomes can be legal when correctly formulated.

In plain terms: be wary of any clinic offering to inject exosomes, and of any claim that they will "reset" ageing cells. The science is early. Ask what the product is, where it comes from, and see the packaging before you agree to anything.

How do I choose the right ingredient for my skin?

Start with your main concern, not the trend.

• •Redness, oiliness or uneven tone: niacinamide. Our Medik8 range, which you will find in store or can purchase online, is a good place to start.
• •Fine lines and loss of firmness: peptides, used consistently.
• •Dull, tired or scarred skin: ask us about skin boosters and regenerative treatments such as polynucleotides, rather than relying on a serum.
• •Anything involving exosomes: ask where they come from and whether they are injected or topical before you book.

When you book a face consultation, we look at your skin first, then recommend a plan. No guesswork and no pressure.

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